First Impressions

Tailored for life

Londoner Daisy Knatchbull founded her atelier The Deck in Chelsea in 2019. Just four years on, she has an enviable client list of businesswomen and celebrities, and is now the first women’s tailor with a shopfront on Savile Row.

Daisy was raised in Chelsea, and this is also where she started her business. She says, “The business launched in a King's Road basement and, very quickly, became a huge success and we opened our first shop on Lower Sloane Street. In June 2020, we went to 19 Savile Row, becoming the first women’s tailor with a shopfront there. During the pandemic everyone thought I was crazy taking space on Savile Row but, in December last year, we made another move to one of the largest shops on the street.”

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The Deck flagship occupies 32 Savile Row and behind the traditional exterior is an exquisite space designed with women in mind by London team, Cordles Design. Daisy explains, “We wanted to evoke the comfort of a living room so we have de Gournay hand-embroidered silk wallpaper, soft carpets, chocolate velvet sofas and brass and gold antique mirroring.”

Rule breaker

The understated luxe interior is the backdrop for the private consultations that lead to the crafting of the two-and three-piece trousers suits for which The Deck has become renowned. Back in 2017 Daisy turned heads by becoming the first woman in morning dress at Royal Ascot, making her the perfect advertisement for the collection.

“I’ve never been so nervous in my life!” she laughs, recalling the June day when she tried to enter the Royal Enclosure wearing a made-tomeasure tailcoat. “They tried to stop me. They said the rules stated that if you are wearing a top hat and tails you must have the correct footwear and I had on six-inch Louboutin’s! Eventually, the manager said I could go in, and I was clapped into the Royal Enclosure.”

Daisy’s tradition-busting day at the races made the papers and paved the way for other racegoers. She says, “It certainly had an effect. At Ascot they’ve changed the dress code to allow women to wear trousers so that is cool.”

Attention to detail

At The Deck, a great deal of consideration goes into every commission with each consultation taking a minimum of three hours. “The tailors build a very intimate relationship with clients. We really get to know them in terms of what colours work for them and what parts of their body they like,” says Daisy.

The ethos of The Deck is three-fold. “We talk about longevity, durability and versatility,” says Daisy. “Longevity, because all our suits come with enough inlay so they can be taken in and let out for the rest of your life. Durability, because they are made by craftspeople using techniques and fabrics that stand the test of time. And versatility, because with one suit, you have a multitude of different looks. You just need good staples – a silk shirt, a pair of trainers, a pair of stilettos and statement earrings – and you've got a smart or a pared-down look with that same two- or three-piece.”

Cut from a different cloth

The Deck prices start from £2,800 for a two-piece suit, and there is a lifetime repair policy. As well as jackets and trousers, The Deck makes skirts and dresses with 7,000 fabrics to choose from. “We have silks, wools, cottons, velvets, cords, tartans, flannels, tweeds, linens – you name it we do it,” says Daisy, adding, “Popular colours are greens, blues, blacks, and people love a Prince of Wales check, navy or grey herringbones and lots of white linen.” And her personal favourites? “A three-piece navy pinstripe with trainers and a t-shirt. I often get stopped in the street when I wear that – and a black barathea tuxedo with grosgrain silk facings, a cigarette trouser and a waistcoat with nothing underneath.”

Daisy loves working on meaningful commissions: “One of our clients sadly lost her father so we embroidered his ties under the collar of her suit jacket. Another’s mother had an amazing collection of Hermes scarves which we put inside a lining. One of my clients has a job which takes her to dangerous parts of the world, and she has a code word that she texts to her husband to let him know she’s safe. We embroidered that word in the back of her jacket.”

Sartorial savvy

A growing trend is the white or cream three-piece suit as bridal wear. Daisy explains, “Brides have realised that there is an alternative to spending thousands on a dress you’ll never wear again. It’s lovely to have something that you can wear forever and even pass down.” Although Daisy spends her working life in Savile Row, home is currently Little Venice but she will soon be on the move. “I am buying a house in Kensal Rise with my partner. The area has a real community feel with a butcher and baker, micro-breweries, boutiques and restaurants and, when you look out of the window it feels like you could be in a country village. I absolutely love it.”

The Deck has dressed high-profile businesswomen and A-listers including Elle Macpherson, Thandiwe Newton, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Kate Moss, Tilda Swinton and Maya Jama. Customers remain loyal and, each month, there is a repeat order rate of around 30 per cent. It seems that by driving a coach and horses through the masculine traditions of Savile Row, Daisy really has struck gold.

Daisy's London

What is your favourite London memory?

Anything that involves patriotism, I love it when Londoners come together.

Where do you like to eat in the capital?

Luca, a Michelin star Italian restaurant in east London; Carmel in Queen’s Park; Casa Cruz, Dorian, Gold and Straker’s in Notting Hill; and Maison Francois in St James’s.

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Where do you go to unwind?

A wine bar such as Noble Rot or for a walk along the canal in Little Venice. I don’t go to the gym much but when I do, I like Reformer Pilates.

Who have you got on speed dial?

Deliveroo, and a dermatologist called Dr Anita Sturnham who completely fixed my skin. She has a skincare line called Decree.

What do you miss most about London when you are away?

I miss the cinema, theatre and concerts. I love Sofar Sounds. You book online for events all over London, but they don’t tell you where until the day and you don’t know who is playing. It may be someone famous or the most brilliant harpist no one's ever heard of.

London's best kept secret is...

The Nudge. I am obsessed with finding weird and wacky things to do in London, whether it’s with my partner or with friends. The Nudge is a brilliant website to find out everything fun in your city; it could be an outdoor cinema or immersive dining experiences. You can filter by ‘I’m on a date on a Thursday and want to do something adventurous.'

Other Articles (Dexters Magazine Autumn 2023)