Combining vintage and antique watch restoration with award-winning design, Struthers' watches are beloved by collectors and enthusiasts.
Dr Rebecca Struthers, who with husband Craig founded bespoke luxury watchmakers Struthers, talks discrimination, determination and dedication to her art.
Struthers is famous for fusing heritage, fine craftsmanship and 21st Century technology. Can you tell us exactly what sets a Struthers watch apart?
We only make between two to five pieces a year, all the equipment in our workshop is either vintage or antique, it’s like stepping back in time. The other key difference is both Craig and I originally trained as vintage watch restorers and work in collaboration with brilliant local craftspeople and through them incorporate modern technology like Computer Aided Design.
You were just 17 when you realised your vocation. Can you tell us about how you got started?
I’ve always loved science and art. I took science-led A-levels, but really missed creating things. I’d never heard of watchmaking as a career, but ended up starting my training as a jeweller and silversmith. I just fell in love with it. My parents thought I was mad!
You’ve been quoted as saying, “Escaping discrimination was one of the key motivators in setting up my own business.” Can you tell us about being a woman in what’s traditionally been a man’s world?
When I first started out most of my contemporaries were more mature men studying a retirement hobby, not a potential career. I was a young, outspoken girl, very different from those men wanting to escape to the garden shed! I was told the workshop was not a place for a woman; I was told any position that came up would have to be approved by existing people (men) who would never employ me, so I should give up now. Over the years, things started to change: I was no longer seen as a flighty girl, and when I got my PhD, the dynamic really started to change. At Struthers today, we have a young female apprentice and there’s a really different atmosphere.
You became the first watchmaker – of any gender – in British history to earn a PhD in horology. What impact has that had on Struthers’ success?
It’s had a huge impact. Authority is the most valuable weapon you have. For some people looking from the outside, if they see a younger women at the helm – I’m 32 – they may wonder whether this is a serious business to spend money on. The PhD has supported our staying power, as well as feeding into design.
Tell us about your PhD thesis – it had a strong London theme?
I was looking at the period between 1750-1820 where we saw early mass production of watches. One type of watch popular in the second half of the 18th Century was known as the ‘London Forgery’. These watches were often made in Geneva, produced in vast numbers and signed as ‘London-made’ by watchmakers with no record of even existing. I stripped back 30 watches held in the British Museum to discover they were commissioned by Dutch merchants and used the cachet of London: you may never have heard of a particular watchmaker – brand names weren’t important, but city names like London were.
Tell us about a commission you’re particularly excited about.
We’re currently working on creating our first in-house movement, creating everything from scratch. We’re looking to revive a movement in an English style that’s not been favoured for more than a century, bringing 21st Century technology into play. We have five collectors – who we call our 'Famous Five' – they're all very excited about the project which should complete in 2020.
You’ve been recognised as a leading woman within your industry through awards such as Eve's Watch Awards Woman of the Year. How important are such accolades?
When you’re an independent maker, sometimes you question why on earth you’re doing this and if anyone’s noticed your work! Accolades help you get noticed which means I get more young people, including women, approach me because they’ve been inspired to pursue watchmaking.
BACKES & STRAUSS W1
Established in 1789, Backes & Strauss is the world’s oldest diamond company, with a wealth of heritage. From humble beginnings to the “ultimate bejewelled timepiece creator” it is today, Backes & Strauss is celebrated as a British pioneer in innovative diamond cutting techniques and intricate, creative jewellery design. Dedicated to exhibiting the world's finest quality diamonds in watch form, the company combines tradition with modern living. Whether you are looking to celebrate a milestone or to create your own work of art, the experts at Backes & Strauss can assist you in your pursuit of owning a masterpiece that is uniquely yours. The company allows the buyer the opportunity to be involved at every step of the creation; from the design to the inner workings of the watch.
22 Grosvenor Street, W1K 4QJ, backesandstrauss.com
Image above: Backes & Strauss
CHARLES FRODSHAM & CO SW1
Charles Frodsham & Company, residing in the heart of St. James’s, specialises in all aspects of horology. They are the longest continuously trading firm of chronometer manufacturers in the world, synonymous with precision timekeeping instruments of the highest quality. With a varied stock for sale, ranging from the 17th Century through to the present day, products range from regulators, marine and pocket chronometers, mantel, table and carriage clocks as well as technical and decorative pocket watches.
32 Bury Street, SW1Y 6AU, frodsham.com
